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Features
Harry's Cosmeticology Volume 1
Part 1 Marketing
Part 2 Regulatory Requirements, Intellectual Property, Achieving Global Market Success
Part 3 The Substrates
Harry's 9th Edition Volume 2
Harry's Cosmeticology Volume 2
Part 4 Ingredients
Part 5 Anti-Aging
Harry's Cosmeticology 9th Edition Volume 3
Part 6 Formulating
Part 7 Sensory Characterization
Part 8 Delivery Systems
Part 9 Nutracosmetics
Part 10 Nanocosmetics
Part 11 Testing
Part 12 Sustainability
Part 13 Cosmetic Manufacturing
Part 14 Packaging
Part 1. In The Beginning
Part 1.1
Marketing Concepts to Empower Technical People
Darrin C. Duber-Smith, MS, MBA Senior Lecturer Metropolitan State University Denver
Table of Contents
1.1.1 The Magic and Mythology of Marketing
1.1.2 The Marketing Concept
1.1.3 Assessing the Marketing Environment
1.1.4 The Four P's
1.1.5 Development, Prototypes, Testing, and Commercialization
1.1.6 The Truth About Innovation
1.1.7 The Missing Links
Part 1.2
Creating the Right Fragrance for Your Personal Care Product
Jill B. Costa, Ph.D.
Bell Flavors and Fragrances
500 Academy Drive
Northbrook, IL 60062
Table of Contents
1.2.1 The Fragrance House
1.2.2 Fragrance Materials
1.2.3 What is a Fragrance Composition?
1.2.4 Creation / Construction of Fragrances
a. Top, Middle, and Base Notes
b. Fragrance Characters
1.2.5 Interaction of Fragrance Materials with Product Bases
a. Volatility / Boiling Point
b. Hydrophobicity / Hydrophilicity (Octanol-Water Partition Coefficient, log KOW)
c. Odor Detection Thresholds
1.2.6 Evaluation of Fragrances
a. Product-Use Cycle
b. Fragrance Complexity
1.2.7 Limitations of Fragrances
1.2.8 Cost Structure of Fragrances
a. Carriers
b. Concentration-Cost Considerations for Fragrances
1.2.9 Troubleshooting Fragrances
a. Color Changes
b. Physical Product Stability
c. Odor
1.2.10 Fragrance Types Defined
a. Traditional Fragrances
b. EU Allergen Label Free or Allergen Free
c. Water-Soluble Fragrances
d. Water-Dispersible Fragrances
e. INCI Blends
1. Natural INCI Blends
2. Allergen-Label-Free INCI Blend
3. Traditional INCI Blend
4. "Unscented" INCI Blend
f. Natural Fragrances
1. Traditional Natural Blends
2. Essential Oil Natural Blends
g. GRAS Fragrances (Generally Recognized as Safe)
Conclusion
References
Part 1.3
Fragrance Packaging Design:
A Multi-Sensory Experience from Concept to Consumer
Renee Bukowski
Senior Product Development Manager
Tru Fragrance and Beauty
1250 Broadway, Suite 1901
New York, NY 10001
Table of Contents
1.3.1 Integrated Process: The Brief
1.3.2 Smell Through Hearing: Consumer Testing
1.3.3 Smell Through Seeing: Fragrance Needs Color
1.3.4 Smell Through Touching: How Will the Consumer Feel?
1.3.5 Smell Through Smelling: Tell a Story, Paint a Picture
Conclusion
References
Part 1.4
Understanding the Value of Molecular Cell Biology and Gene Analysis for the Next Generation of Cosmetic Products
Howard Epstein Ph.D.,
EMD Chemicals, Philadelphia PA
Table of Contents
1.4.1 Introduction
1.4.2 Principles of Molecular Biology
1.4.3 Proteomics, genomics and epigenetics
1.4.4 Application for Skin Care
1.4.5 (Future perspectives) Conclusion
References
Glossary
Part 2 Regulatory
Part 2.1
Regulatory Requirements, Intellectual Property and Achieving Global Market Success for Cosmetic Products
Co-Editors' Introduction
Ruud Overbeek and Meyer R. Rosen
Part 2.2
An Overview of the Changing Regulatory Landscape in the U.S and the E.U. and how to Deal with them...
Dr. Matteo Zanotti Russo
University of Pisa
Angel Consulting SAS Milano
Table of Contents
2.2.1 The challenge of "changing standards"
2.2.2 Regulatory Requirements for Cosmetics in the United States
a. Introduction: roles and responsibilities
b. Rules and references
c. Definition of Cosmetic, field of application, drugs and cosmetics, cosmeceuticals
d. Classification of Cosmetic/Drug
e. How to manage Cosmetic/Drug
f. Cosmetics and Soaps
g. Labeling and package of cosmetics
h. Warnings
i. Missing INCI name; what to do
j. How to get the assignment of a new INCI name
2.2.3 Guide to Cosmetic Development and Safety Evaluations
a. Compliance of limited/regulated ingredients
b. Safety assessment of cosmetics according to FD&C Act
c. Regulated/limited substances
d. Prohibited ingredients and impurities according to the FDA
e. Color additives
f. Safety profile of substances: source of information
g. Safety profile of finished product
h. Microbiological requirement
i. Activity of manufacturers/importers/exporters
j. FDA plant inspection checklist
k. Activity of public health authorities: notification/permissions, audits
l. Future developments of U.S. legislation
2.2.4 Regulatory Requirements for Cosmetics in the European Union
a. Introduction, roles, and responsibilities
b. "Intercontinental" products
c. Classification of cosmetic/drug, borderline products
d. Roles and Responsibilities
e. Definition of "safety"
f. Labeling
g. Troubles on EU INCI names, and what before and after the "Glossary"
h. Guidelines on labeling
i. Manufacture of cosmetics for the European market
2.2.5 PIF and safety assessment of European cosmetics
a. Profile of the safety assessor
b. The structure of documents
c. Annex I: CPSR
d. Annexes that have to be considered: II to VI
2.2.6 Safety profile of substances: source of information
2.2.7 The safety assessment from raw material to finished product
a. Animal Testing
b. CMR
2.2.8 The Notification in the CPNP
2.2.9 Market Surveillance, activity of EU Authorities (Articles 22-23), RAPEX
a. Other laws that affect the EU 1223/2009: REACH (EU regulation on chemicals)
2.2.10 Practical features: how to move towards compliance with EU regulations
Conclusions
References
Part 2.3.1
Achieving Global Market Access - focus on Russia
Ramzia Lefebvre
Technical Manager for Russia and Customs Union Certification
Intertek France
Government & Trade Services
Table of Contents
2.3.1.1 Introduction
2.3.1.2 What is the customs union and what is its aim?
2.3.1.3 What were the old requirements and procedures of product
Conformity assessment and how have they progressed to date?
1. Prior to July 1, 2012
2. Since July 1, 2012
2.3.1.4 Overview of the new customs union technical regulation "about safety of perfumery and cosmetic products"
1. Definition of perfumes and cosmetics according to CU Technical Regulation
2. Conformity assessment documents
a. State registration
b. TR declaration of conformity to customs union
3. Requirements for perfumes and cosmetics
4. Labeling requirements
5. Mark of conformity
2.3.1.5 How different are the new rules from European requirements?
2.3.1.6 Do the new rules simplify access to the combined Russian and cu market? How do new rules affect exports of cosmetics to Russia?
2.3.1.7 business climate in Russia and reformsRussia joined WTO
References
Part 2.3.2
Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (KSA): Cosmetics and Perfumery Products: Market Access and Regulations
Ms. Aurlie Bafoil
Cosmetic Regulatory Affairs Senior Analyst
Intertek Government and Trade Services
Table of Contents
2.3.2.1 Regulatory Framework
a. Cosmetic ruling authority
b. Cosmetic regulations and sanctioned standards
1. Sanctioned Safety Standard
2. Guidance for Products Classification
3. Product-specific standards
2.3.2.2 Definition and Scope of Application
a. Definition
b. Classification
2.3.3.3 Labeling
a. General rules
b. Specific rules
2.3.2.4 Market Access
a. Certification process
b. Conformity assessment
c. Key issues
References
Part 2.3.3
Achieving Global Market Access - focus on China
Mr. Zhongrui Li (Mr. Ray Li),
Toxicological Risk Assessor,
Table of Contents
2.3.3.1 Category of cosmetics in China: special use and non-special use cosmetic
2.3.3.2 Oral products requirements
2.3.3.3 Document and testing requirements during product registration
2.3.3.4 Animal testing requirements in China
2.3.3.5 Safety assessment for ingredients and finish products
2.3.3.6 Comparison of EU and China regulation requirements
2.3.3.7 Existing and new cosmetic ingredients in China
Part 2.3.4
Nanomaterials in Cosmetics: Regulatory and Safety Considerations
Jeffrey W. Card and Tomas Jonaitis
Jeffrey W. Card, Ph.D.
Senior Program Manager, Toxicology
Pharmaceuticals & Healthcare
Intertek Cantox
2233 Argentia Road, Suite 308
Mississauga, Ontario, CANADA L5N 2X7
Table of Contents
2.3.4.1 Regulation of Cosmetics Containing Nanomaterials
a. Definition of Nanomaterial
b. Regulation in Europe
c. Regulation in the United States
d. Regulation in Canada
2.3.4.2 Safety Assessment Considerations for Nanomaterials
a. Study Design Aspects
b. Nanomaterial Characterization
c. Dose Metrics
d. Assay Interference
Conclusion
References
Part 2.4
Intellectual Property (IP) Issues: Patents and Trade Secrets
Charles Brumlik, J.D., Ph.D.
Table of Contents
2.4.1 Introduction
2.4.2 Typical IP Timing in Cosmetics and Personal Care
2.4.3 Procuring IP Rights
a. Patents
b. Utility Patent (most common patent)
c. U.S. Provisional Application
d. Design Patent or Industrial Design (for nonfunctional look of product)
e. Plant Patent (for live plant species)
f. Utility Model (sometimes called patent-lite, mainly in China, Japan, and Korea)
2.4.4 General Criteria of Patentability
2.4.5 Patent Application Timeline
2.4.6 Patent Organizations Across the World
a. National Patent Systems
2.4.7 Patent Cooperation Treaty (PCT) The main route for obtaining patents international
a. European Patent Convention
b. Regional Patent Organizations
2.4.8 Trade Secret
2.4.9 Trademarks & Service Marks
a. Trademark
b. Service Mark
c. Trade Dress
d. Copyright
2.4.10 Enforcing IP Rights & Reducing IP Risk
a. Freedom to Operate
b. IP Information from Packaging
c. IP Issues While Partnering with Third Parties
d. IP Litigation & Patent Infringement
2.4.11 Recent and Hot IP Issues
a. Asian Natural Herbal Ingredients
2.4.12 Mining IP Informationfor Search, Analytics, Competitive Intelligence
a. Patent Searching
b. Patent Classes
c. Patent Search Sites
d. Trademark Searching
e. Searching for Industrial Designs
Abbreviations
References
Part 3 The Substrates
Part 3.1.1
The Skin: Structure, Biochemistry, and Function
Editor of The Skin, Structure, Biochemistry, and Function:
Bozena "Bo" B. Michniak-Kohn, Ph.D., M.R.Pharm.S.
Professorof Pharmaceutics
Ernest Mario School of Pharmacy
Director & Founder
Center for Dermal Research (CDR)
NJ Center for Biomaterials,Life Sciences Building
RutgersThe State University of New Jersey
145, Bevier Road,
Piscataway, NJ 08854.
www.michniaklab.org
Contributors:
1. Amy S. Pappert, M.D.
Assistant Professor, Department of Dermatology
UMDNJRobert Wood Johnson Medical School
1 World's Fair Drive, Suite 2400Somerset, NJ 08873
2. Philip Wertz, Ph.D.
Professor Department of Oral Pathology, Radiology, and Medicine
N450 DSB, Dows Institute
University of Iowa
Iowa City IA 52242
3. Nripen Sharma, Ph.D.
Clinical Scientist/Project Manager/Technical Support
Salvona Technologies LLC
65 Stults Rd., Dayton, NJ 08810
4. Anna Langerveld, Ph.D.
President and CEO
Genemarkers
4717 Campus Drive, Suite 1800
Kalamazoo, MI 49008
5. Ada Polla
Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group
1010 Wisconsin Avenue NW, Suite 201
Washington, DC 20007
Online: www.alchimie-forever.com
6. Barbara Polla, M.D.
Medical Doctor
Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group
1010 Wisconsin Avenue NW, Suite 201
Washington, DC 20007
7. Anne Pouillot, MS
Director of Science of Alchimie Forever
Alchimie Forever, The Polla Beauty Group
1010 Wisconsin Avenue NW, Suite 201
Washington, DC 20007
8. Karen E. Burke, M.D., Ph.D.
Dermatologist
429 East 52nd Street
New York, New York 10022
9. Gopi Menon, Ph.D.
Senior Science Fellow
Ashland Specialty Ingredients
1361 Alps Road
Wayne, NJ
10. Nava Dayan Ph.D.
President
Dr. Nava Dayan LLC
Table of Contents
Part 3.1 Substrate:
The Skin:
Structure, Biochemistry and Function
3.1.1 Skin Morphology
3.1.2 Epidermis and the Keratinizing System
a. Dermo-Epidermal Junction
b. Stratum Basale
c. Stratum Spinosum
d. Stratum Granulosum
e. Stratum Lucidum
f. Stratum Corneum
3.1.3 Terminal Differentiation
3.1.4 Pigmentary System of the Skin
3.1.5 Langerhans Cells and Dendritic Cells
3.1.6 Dermis
a. Collagen
b. Elastin and Reticulin
c. Ground Substance
d. Nerves
e .Vasculature
f. Muscles
3.1.7 Appendageal Structures
a. Eccrine Sweat Glands
b. Apocrine Glands
c. Sebaceous Glands
3.1.8 Hair
3.1.9 Nails
3.1.10 Barrier Function and Permeability
a. The Barrier Property of Skin: A Historical Perspective
b. Stratum corneum
c. Other Barriers:
d. Penetration of Cosmetic Actives Through the Stratum corneum
e. Penetration Versus Protection
3.1.11 Immunological Function
3.1.12 Cytokines
3.1.13 Enzymes
3.1.14 Ultraviolet Radiation-induced Photo-damage and Skin Cancer
3.1.15 Gene expression in Skin Care
a. Genomics Technologies
b. Genomics and the Skin
c. Gene Expression Analysis: A Breakthrough for Cosmetic Science
d. Challenges
e. Looking Ahead
f. Recommended Reading
Glossary
References
Part 3.2.1
Classification Scale for Skin Complexions Around the World
Eva Patel
Skin Rx Inc.
Founder & CEO
Table of Contents:
3.2.2 Why we need an updated Skin Classification Scale
3.2.3 The methodology in which the study was conducted:
3.2.4 Summary, Analysis
3.2.5 Where Methodology Meets Results
Part 3.2.2
Dermatologic Disorders in Skin of Color
Aanand N. Geria, MD
Table of Contents:
3.2.2.1 Introduction
3.2.2.2 Pharmacology
3.2.2.3 Indications
a. Acne
b. Melasma and Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
c. Photo-aging
3.2.2.4 Adverse Effects
References
Part 3.2.3
Asian Ethnic Skin: Specialty Corrective Cosmeceuticals for Asian Ethnic Skin Care
Eva Patel
Skin Rx Inc.
Founder & CEO
Gurpreet (Gogi) Sangha
G.S. Cosmeceutical USA Inc.
Founder & CEO
Table of Contents
3.2.3.1 Defining the Asian Ethnic Market
3.2.3.2 Differences Between Content Levels of Melanin in the Skin
3.2.3.3 Common Skin Conditions for Ethnic Skin and Treatment Methods3.2.3.4 Tips to Achieve Healthy, Beautiful Skin
Part 3.2.4
Compromised Skin in the Elderly
Authors:
R. Randall Wickett, Ph.D., Martha Tate, Ph.D.
Randall Wickett, Ph.D.
Emeritus Professor
Pharmaceutics and Cosmetic Science
Univ. Cincinnati College of Pharmacy
3225 Eden Ave
Cincinnati, Oh 42567
Martha Tate, Ph.D.
Research and Engineering
Kimberly-Clark Corporation
1400 Holcomb Bridge Road
Roswell, GA 30076
Table of Contents
3.2.4.1 Structure of the Skin
3.2.4.2 Skin Aging: Changes in the Epidermis and Stratum Corneum
3.2.4.3 Aging and the Dermis
3.2.4.4 The Dermatoglyphic Pattern of the Skin
3.2.4.5 Aging and Mechanical Properties of Skin
3.2.4.6 Telangiectasia
3.2.4.7 Photo-Aging Mechanisms
3.2.4.8 Photo-Aging and Appearance
3.2.4.9 Compromised Elderly Skin Treatments
a. SunscreensAn Ounce of Prevention
b. All-Trans Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin): The Gold Standard
c. Cosmeceutical Treatments for Aging Skin
d. Vitamin A and "Cosmeceutical" Derivatives
e. Niacinamide
f. Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids
g. Antioxidants
h. Other Actives
Conclusions
References
Part 3.3.0
The Hair
Editors Overview
Editor: Manuel Gamez-Garcia
Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Part 3.3.1
An Overview of the Physical and Chemical Properties of Hair
and their relation to Cosmetic Needs, Performance and Properties
Manuel Gamez-Garcia
Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Table of Contents
3.3.1.1 Introduction
3.3.1.2 Chemical composition of hair
3.3.1.3 Main types of hair cells
3.3.1.4 Cortical cells and their role in hair properties
a. Cortical cell structure and composition
b. Viscoelasticity in hair and cortical cells
c. Shape-memory properties of hair
d. Viscoelasticity and the shape-memory properties of hair
e. Water and moisture absorption/desorption by hair and cortical cells
3.3.1.4 Different types of cortical cells and hair shape
3.3.1.5 Cuticle cells and their role in hair properties
a. Cuticle cell structure and composition
b. Viscoelasticity in hair and cuticle cells
c. Water and moisture absorption/desorption by cuticle cells
d. Optical properties of cuticle cells
e. The medulla cells
3.3.1.7 Melanin pigments in hair
3.3.1.8 Hair function
3.3.1.9 The follicle
a. Different zones in the follicle
b. Life cycle of the follicle
References
Part 3.3.2
An Overview of Hair Follicle Anatomy and Biology
Paul Mouser Ph.D.
Ashland, Inc., Ashland Specialty Ingredients, Bridgewater, NJ, United States
Table of Contents:
3.3.2.1 Hair Follicle Structure
3.3.2.2 Hair Follicle Cycling
3.3.2.3 Aging of the Hair Follicle
Conclusion
References
Glossary
Part 3.3.3
Hair Aging: Fundamentals, Protection and Repair
Padmaja Prem, Ph.D
Vice President, Research & Development
Combe Incorporated, 1101 Westchester Avenue
White Plains, NY 10604
Table of Contents
3.3.3.1 Introduction
3.3.3.2 Structure, Composition, and Natural Color of Hair
3.3.3.3 Fundamentals and Signs of Aging Hair
3.3.3.4 Photo-Aging of Hair
3.3.3.5 Protection of Hair from Aging
a. Scalp Care
b. Hair Care
3.3.3.6 Anti-Aging Hair Care Products
Conclusion
References
Glossary
Part 3.3.4
Mechanisms of Changes in Hair Shape
Manuel Gamez-Garcia
Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Table of contents:
3.3.4.1 Introduction
3.3.4.2 The shape memory properties of hair
a. Definition of shape memory materials
b. Hair is a biopolymer with shape memory properties.
c. Temporary shape memory in hair
d. The apparent permanent shape in hair
e. Permanent shape memory in hair
f. Changes to the permanent shape of hair
g. Shape reversion
3.3.4.3 Changes in hair shape by water-setting
a. The process
b. Physical processes taking place inside hair during water-setting
c. Temporary shapes induced by long-term deformations
d. Limitations of water-setting
3.3.4.4 Changes in hair shape by hot iron treatments
a. Introduction
b. The process
c. Mechanical action of the hot iron
3.3.4.5 Physical processes taking place inside hair during hot ironing
a. Water evaporation
b. Phase changes and transitions in hair
c. The mechanisms of water and hot iron setting are different.
d. Hot iron setting: partial denaturation of crystalline phase and vitrification of the amorphous phase
e. Heat transfer from hot iron to hair
f. Unwanted consequences of friction and rising hair temperature above Tg
3.3.4.6 Hair shape changes induced by permanent waving solutions
a. The process
b. Physical and chemical processes taking place inside hair during permanent waving
3.3.4.7 Hair shape changes induced by alkaline relaxers
a. The process
b. Physical and chemical processes taking place inside hair during alkaline straightening
c. shapeless haira new straight shape
3.3.4.8 Hair shape changes induced during grooming practices
a. Static vs. dynamic changes in hair shape
b. Friction vs. bending forces in dynamic changes in hair shape
3.3.4.9 Hair volume and changes in hair shape
a. Definition of volume
b. Main challenges in creating volume
c. Back-combing and "static fly away"
3.3.4.10 Frizz in hair and changes in shape
3.3.4.11 Body in hair and changes in hair shape
3.3.4.12 Hair shape changes induced by styling polymers
3.3.4.13 Role of styling polymers in changing hair shape
a. Temporary setting of hair with aerosols
b. Temporary setting of hair with gels and mousses
c. Mechanical properties of welding seams and spots
d. Effect of polymer glass transition temperature (Tg) on styling
e. Adhesive strength at the polymer/hair interface
References
Part 3.3.5
Eyelashes: Anatomy and Conditioners
For Increasing Length and Fullness/Thickness
Author:
Susan Lin, M.D.
448 N. San Mateo Drive San Mateo CA 94401 USA
Table of Contents:
3.3.5.1 Lash Anatomy
3.3.5.2 Lash Growth Cycle
3.3.5.3 Lash Conditioners
a. History
b. Safety Assessment
c. Study
d. Discussion
e. Newer- Generation Lash Conditioners
f. Observations with lash conditioner usage:
g. Results
Conclusion
Future Development
References
Part 3.4
The Nails
Dr. Lawrence Silverberg
Vice President of Technology & Clinical Director
NailPure
Table of Contents:
3.4.1 Introduction -Toenails and Fingernails
a. Fashion
b. Function
c. Anatomy
e. Development and Formation
3.4.2 Histology, Ultrastructure, and Composition
3.4.3 Rate of Nail Growth
3.4.4 Nail Pathologies
a. Absence of Nails (Anonychia)
b. Nail Shedding (Onychomadesis)
c. Nail Separation from the Nailbed (Onycholysis)
d. Brittleness
e. Striations (Onychorrhexis)
f. Spoon-Shaped Nails (Koilonychia)
g. Splitting (Onychoschizia)
h. Pitting
i. Leukonychia
j. Onychomycosis
k. Paronychia
l. Discoloration
m. Subungual hematoma
References
Part 3.5
The Nose
Accessing the Biology of Human Olfaction:
New, All-Natural Fragrance Ingredients;
Novel Consumer Fragrance Experiences and Applications
Author:
Kambiz Shekdar, Visiting Scientist, Rockefeller University
Table of Contents
The Biology of Olfaction and Fragrance Ingredient Discovery and Creation
3.5.1 Odorant Receptors
3.5.2 Cell-Based High-Throughput Odorant DiscoveryPrinciples and Basic Design
3.5.3 New Ingredients and Applications
3.5.4 Methods
References
Part 3.6.1
The Mouth and Oral Care
Roger Ellwood
Colgate-Palmolive Company
Director of Clinical Research for Europe
and
Scott Harper (Author of Harry's 8th Edition: Mouth and Oral Care)
Table of Contents:
3.6.1 The Teeth And Their Surroundings
3.6.2 The Teeth
a. Tooth Anatomy and Structure
b. Dental Enamel
c. Dentin
3.6.3 The Gums
3.6.4 Oral Fluids
a. Saliva
b. Gingival Crevicular Fluid (GCF)
3.6.5 The Oral Soft Tissues
3.6.6 Dental Deposits
a. Dental Pellicle
b. Dental Plaque
c. Dental Calculus
3.6.7 Major Oral Problems And Their Remedies Overview
a. Dental Plaque
b. Dental Calculus
c. Dental Caries (Tooth Decay)
- Control of Caries
- Remineralization
d. Dental Erosion
e. Periodontal Diseases (Gingivitis And Periodontitis)
f. Dental Hypersensitivity
g. Dental Staining
h. Oral Malodor
i. Dry Mouth (Xerostomia)
j. Aphthous Ulcers (Canker Sores)
References
Part 3.7
Lip Skin: Structure and Function
Author:
Philip Wertz, Ph.D.
Dows Institute
University of Iowa
Iowa City IA 52242 USA
Table of Contents:
3.7.1 Vermilion zone/vermilion border
3.7.2 TEWL/hydration
3.7.3 Sebaceous follicles
3.7.4 Stratum corneum lipids
3.7.5 Change with age
Part 3.8
Feminine Rejuvenation
Author:
Susan F. Lin M.D.
448 N. San Mateo Drive
San Mateo CA 94401 USA
Table of Contents:
3.8.1 The Anatomy
3.8.2 Vulvar Innervations: Physiological and Analytical
3.8.3 Vulvar Atrophy: Causes and Physiology
3.8.4 Treatments
a. Over-the-Counter Treatments
b. Pharmacologic Treatment
c. Novel stem-cell-derived peptides
3.8.5 A New Frontier
Part 4 Ingredients
Part 4.1.0
Ingredients
Editor's Introduction to the Ingredient Section
Editor of the Ingredients Section:
Chia Wen Chen
Executive Director of Basic ResearchBioActives
Este Lauder Companies
125 Pinelawn Road
Melville, NY 11747
Part 4.1.1
Surfactants: Thoughtful, Pro-Active Intervention
at the Interface of Multiphase Dispersed Systems
Author:
J. Mark Chandler
President of ACT Solutions Corp
Table of Contents
4.1.10 Surfactant Introduction
a. History
b. General Function
c. Use
d. Types
4.1.11 Functions
a. Emulsifying
b. Cleaning
c. Foaming
d. Solubilization
e. Conditioning
f. Dispersing
g. Lubricating
4.1.12 Applications: A look at some of the many
a. Creams and lotions
b. Shampoos
c. Skin cleansers
d. Conditioners
e. Color cosmetics
f. Antiperspirants
4.1.13 How Surfactants Work
a. Surface tension effects
b. Interfacial activity
c. Micelles
d. Aggregation structures
e. Charge effects
f. Foam generation
g. Foam stabilization
4.1.14 Surfactant Chemistry
a. Anionics
b. Nonionics
c. Amphoterics
d. Cationics
References
Part 4.1.2
Ingredients for Creating the Next Greatest Lipstick
Nick Morante
Nick Morante Cosmetic Consultants
Table of Contents:
4.1.2.1 Introduction
4.1.2.2 What attributes are we looking for in a lipstick?
4.1.2.3 Traditional ingredients used in creating a lipstick
4.1.2.4 Trendy and exotic ingredients for lipstick
4.1.2.5 Miscellaneous
References
Part 4.1.3
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid) A Natural Moisturizer Skin Care
Authors:
Dr. Daniela Smejkalova Nano-carrier Development Group
Dr. Gloria Huerta-Angeles Biopolymers Modification Group
Tereza Ehlova Hyaluronan Fragments Group
Contipro Pharma, Doln Dobrou 401, 561 02, Czech Republic
Table of Contents
4.1.3.1 Structure and selected physical-chemical properties of hyaluronan
4.1.3.2 Preparation of hyaluronan fragments, isolation and characterization thereof, characterization of degradation products of hyaluronan
4.1.3.3 Preparation of chemical derivatives of hyaluronan, characterization thereof
4.1.3.4 Hyaluronan penetration into the stratum corneum and into the skin
4.1.3.5 Moisturizing properties of native high-molecular hyaluronan and how the moisturizing properties change as the molecular weight is reduced
4.1.3.6 Cosmetic application for various molecular weights of hyaluronan
References
Glossary
Part 4.1.4.1
Ayurveda in personal care
Smitha Rao MS, MBA
Lonza
70 Tyler place South Plainfield NJ 07080
Table of Contents:
4.1.4.11 Background and folkloric use of Ayurvedic medicine
4.1.4.12 Ingredients appropriate for cosmetic/topical use
4.1.4.13 Conclusion
References
Table 1
Part 4.1.4.2
Probiotics in Topical Personal Healthcare: A New Understanding A Bright Future
Author:
Donald R. Owen, Ph.D., President
Owen Biosciences Inc.
7053 Revenue Dr.
Baton Rouge, LA 70809
Table of Contents
4.1.4.21 Introduction
4.1.4.22 Overview
4.1.4.23 Conclusion
References
Part 4.1.4.3
Green and sustainable ingredients from Biotransformation and biofermentation
Author:
Smitha Rao MS, MBA
Lonza
70 Tyler place South Plainfield NJ 07080
Table of Contents:
4.1.4.31 The rise of green and sustainable cosmetic ingredients from fermentation
4.1.4.32 The impact on environment
4.1.4.33 Activity in cosmetics
Conclusion
References
Part 4.1.5
Multi-Functional Botanicals for Topical Applications
Authors:
Anurag Pande, Ph.D.
Sabinsa Corporation
Dr. Muhammed Majeed
Sabinsa Corporation
Table of Contents
4.1.5.1 Introduction
4.1.5.2 Natural and naturally derived actives
4.1.5.3 Extraction techniques
4.1.5.4 Role of standardization
4.1.5.5 Multifunctional Botanicals
a. Saberry
b. Ellagic acid (from pomegranate)
c. Tetrahydrocurcuminoids (Turmeric extract)
d. Sabiwhite - 955 tetrahydrocurcumin extract
e. Cococin (Freeze-dried coconut water)
f. ForsLean (Coleus forskohlii rhizomes)
g. Cosmoperine (Piper nigrum fruits)
h. ARTONOX (Artocarpus lakoocha wood)
i. Eclipta alba (Bhringraja)
j. Ursolic acid (Salvia officinalis leaves)
k. Boswellin CG (Boswellia extract)
4.1.5.6 Sustainability of Botanicals
Conclusion
References
Part 4.1.6
Ingredients to Strengthen Skin Barrier Integrity:
From algal protective exoskeleton to a Protective Barrier for the Epidermis
Author:
Alexandra Jeanneau
Scientific communication officer, Alban Muller Group
Table of contents
4.1.6.1 Skin barrier and epidermis organization overview
a. Epidermis cell structures for skin resistance and cohesion
b. Cell structures depending on calcium
c. Calcium's information-signaling properties
4.1.6.2 Solution for alterations in epidermis
a. Epidermis structures responsible for epidermis resistance
b. Improving calcium bioavailability
4.1.6.3 A natural ingredient to strengthen skin barrier integrity inspired by an alga's primitive strategy
a. A primitive strategy involving calcium
b. An ingredient with a unique mode of action
c. Stimulation of calcium-depending cell structures
1. Cytokeratin synthesis
2. Desmosome formation
d. Restoring intercellular communication, a key factor of the epidermis functioning
e. Improving skin barrier integrity: a better protective shield against pollution
Conclusion
Glossary
References
Part 4.1.7.1
Antimicrobial Preservatives for the Cosmetic and Personal Care Industry
Author:
Daryl Paulson Ph.D.
President and Chief Executive Officer
BioScience Laboratories, Inc.
Table of Contents:
4.1.7.11 The use of Preservatives in Cosmetics, a brief history
4.1.7.12 Traditional Preservatives
4.1.7.13 Problems we face with the use of preservatives
Conclusion
References
Part 4.1.7.2
Antioxidants: Extending the Shelf Life of Your Products
Author:
Satish Nayak, Ph.D.
Kemin Industries,
2100 Maury Street, Des Moines, Iowa
Table of Contents:
4.1.7.21 Introduction
4.1.7.22 Oxidation
4.1.7.23 Antioxidants
4.1.7.24 Primary Antioxidants
4.1.7.25 Secondary Antioxidants
4.1.7.26 Antioxidant Assays
Conclusion
References
Part 4.2.1
Natural and Synthetic Polymers:
Designing Rheological Properties for Applications
Author:
Susan Freers
Grain Processing Corporation
Table of Contents:
4.2.1.1 Designing Rheological Behavior
4.2.1.2 Natural and Synthetic Polymers: Rheological Properties and Applications
4.2.1.3 Rheological additives used to obtain specific properties
4.2.1.4 Rheological additives for aqueous systems
4.2.1.5 Rheological additives for non-aqueous systems
References
Glossary
Part 4.2.2
Rheology Modifiers and Consumer Perception
Authors:
Lisa Gandolfi, Ph.D.
Clariant Corporation
Technical Manager, Consumer Care North America
625 East Catawba Avenue
Mount Holly, NC 28120 USA
Ramiro Galleguillos, Ph.D.
Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc.
Senior Research Associate
9911 Brecksville Rd.
Brecksville, Ohio 44141 USA
Table of Contents:
4.2.2.1 Introduction
4.2.2.2 Rheological Parameters
a. Viscosity
b. Viscosity Measurement
c. Viscosity of polymeric rheology modifiers
d. Yield Stress
e. Viscoelasticity
4.2.2.3 Synthetic Polymeric Rheology Modifiers
a. Modified Sulfonic Acid (AMPS) Polymers
b. AMPS Polymers Rheological Properties
c. Polyacrylic Acid Polymers
d. Polyacrylic Acid Polymers Rheological Properties
e. Alkali Swellable Emulsion Polymers - ASE/HASE Polymers
f. Rheological Properties of ASE/HASE Polymers
4.2.2.4 Rheological Properties and the Consumer Experience
4.2.2.5 Polymeric Rheology Modifiers in Emulsion Formulations
a. Yield stress for emulsion stability
b. Relationship between rheological properties and the sensory experience
c. Speed of Breakdown
d. Spreadability
e. Pick-up and Cushion
f. Skin Afterfeel
g. Correlation of Rheological Measurements and Consumer Perception in Emulsion Formulations
4.2.2.6 Polymeric Rheology Modifiers in Hydroalcoholic Formulations
4.2.2.7 Polymeric Rheology Modifiers in Optical Effects Cleansing Formulations
Conclusion
Acknowledgements
References
Part 4.2.3.1
Silicones in Personal Care Products:
Polydimethyl Siloxanes, Organosilicone Polymers, & Copolymers
Authors:
Anthony J. O'Lenick, Jr.
President
Siltech LLC
2170 Luke Edwards Rd
Dacula, Ga 30019
Thomas O'Lenick PhD
Technical Director
SurfaTech Corporation
1625 Lakes Parkway
Suite N
Lawrenceville Ga 30043
Meyer R. Rosen, FRSC, CPC, CChE, FAIC
President
Interactive Consulting. Inc
P.O. Bo 66
East Norwich, New York, 11732
Table of Contents:
Preface
4.2.3.11 Introduction
4.2.3.12 Solubility
4.2.3.13 Surface Tension
4.2.3.14 Silicone Nomenclature
a. Summary of Silicone Polymer Structure Types
4.2.3.15 Volatile Silicones
a. Cyclomethicone Replacements
b. Summary of Successful Replacements for Cyclomethicones
4.2.3.16 Silicone Fluids
a. Low-Viscosity Silicones
b. Standard-Viscosity Fluids
c. High-Viscosity Fluids
d. Ultra-High-Viscosity Fluids (Gums)
e. Summary of Silicone Polymer Behavior
4.2.3.17 Resins and Elastomers
a. Resin Types
b. MQ Resins
c. MDQ Resin
d. Silicone Crosspolymers
4.2.3.18 Dimethicone Copolyol (PEG/PPG Dimethicone)
a. Wetting Properties as a Function of Molecular Weight
b. Eye Irritation as a Function of Molecular Weight
c. Formulation Ingredient Interactions
d. Water Tolerance
e. Antiperspirant Release
f. Summary
4.2.3.19 Alkyl Dimethicone
a. Alkyl effects
b. Silicone-to-alkyl ratio effects
c. Example: Cetyl Dimethicone
d. Behenyl Dimethicone
4.2.3.20 Multi-Domain Alkyl Dimethicone
a. Syneresis Improvement with Multi-Domain Silicones
b. Summary
4.2.3.21 Alkyl Dimethicone Copolyol
4.2.3.22 Greening with Silicone
a. Summary
References
Part 4.2.3.2
Silicone Elastomer Applications
Author:
John Gormley
Director of Regulatory Affairs /QA
Grant Industries
103 Main Avenue
Elmwood Park, NJ 07407 USA
Table of Contents:
4.2.3.21 Silicone Elastomers for Improved Consumer Acceptance of a Product: Achieving the "WOW" effect
4.2.3.22 Cosmetic Attributes Texture and Oil Control (Mattifying)
4.2.3.23 Example Cosmetic Formulas with Silicone Elastomers
4.2.3.24 Summary
References
Part 4.2.4
Skin Whitener Ingredients
Author:
Herve Offredo, MSc in Microbiology, MBA in Management and Finance
Senior Vice President Sales and Marketing
Barnet Products
140 Sylvan Avenue
Englewood Cliffs, 07632 NJ
Table of Contents:
4.2.4.1 Historic Evolution of Whitening Products in Japan
4.2.4.2 What Is a Whitening Quasi-Drug?
4.2.4.3 What Are the Quasi-Drug Additives?
a. In the melanocytes
b. In the keratinocyte
c. In the nervesa new approach to the reduction of dark spots
d. For the corneocytes
Conclusion
References
Part 4.2.5
Marine Ingredients for Skin Care: An Ocean of Resources
Author:
Herve Offredo
MSc in Microbiology, MBA in Management and Finance
Senior Vice President Sales and Marketing
Barnet Products
140 Sylvan Avenue
Englewood Cliffs, 07632 NJ
Table of Contents:
4.2.5.1 Marine resources
a. What is an alga?
b. Plants from the shore
c. Other resources from marine origins
4.2.5.2 Examples of the use of macroalgae in cosmetics
a. Moisturization
b. Slimming
c. Fountain of youth
d. Oligosaccharides
4.2.5.3 Examples of the use of microalgae in cosmetics
a. Exopolysaccharides
b. Photolyase
c. Thioreduxine/thioreduxine reductase
4.2.5.4 Examples of the use of coastal plants in cosmetics
a. Retinol-like
b. The discovery of AQP 8
Conclusion
References
Part 4.2.6
Topical Reduction of Visible Skin Deterioration Due to Cellulite
Authors:
Peter T Pugliese, MD, 7139 Bernville Road, Bernville, PA 19506
Michael Q. Pugliese, LE, Circadia by Dr Pugliese 8371 Route 183 Bethel, PA 19507
Table of Contents:
4.2.6.1 A Possible Etiology for Cellulite
4.2.6.2 The Menstrual Cycle
4.2.6.3 The Matrix Metalloproteinases
4.2.6.4 The Menstrual Cycle, MMPs, and Ovulation
4.2.6.5 The MMPs and the Menstrual Cycle
4.2.6.6 The key step relating menses to the genesis of cellulite
4.2.6.7 Topical Therapy for Reversing the Appearance of Cellulite
a. Chysinan aromatase inhibitor
b. Chrysin
c. DIM, or Diindolymethane
4.2.6.8 Agents That Block MMPs
4.2.6.9 Mobilizing Adipose Tissue
4.2.6.10 Blocking Phosphodiesterase
4.2.6.11 Shuttling Fat into Mitochondria
4.2.6.12 Rebuilding Collagen
4.2.6.13 Collagen Stimulators
4.2.6.14 Clinical Studies
Conclusion
References
Part 4.3.1
Topical Retinoids
Author:
Aanand N. Geria, MD
Table of Contents:
4.3.1.1 Introduction
4.3.1.2 Pharmacology
4.3.1.3 Indications
a. Acne
b. Melasma and Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
c. Photo-Aging
4.3.1.4 Adverse Effects
References
Part 4.3.2
Peptides for Anti-Aging Skin Care
Author:
Howard Epstein, Ph.D.
EMD Chemicals
One International Plaza, Philadelphia, PA 19113
Table of Contents:
4.3.2.1 Peptides for Anti-Aging Skin Care
4.3.2.2 What is a peptide?
4.3.2.3 Skin Structure and Peptide Categories
4.3.2.4 Bioactive Peptides Marketed for Skin Care Products
Conclusion
References
Part 4.3.3
MicroRNAs in Skin Physiology
Authors:
Jean-Marie Botto (Ph.D.), Valre Busuttil (Ph.D.), Florian Labarrade (M.Sc.), Catherine Serre (M.Sc.), Laurine Bergeron (M.Sc.), Christophe Capallere (M.Sc.), and Nouha Domloge (M.D.)
Ashland Specialties France, Global Skin Research Center, Upstream Research, Sophia-Antipolis, France.
Table of Contents:
4.3.3.1 RNA interference and microRNAstimeline of the discoveries
a. Discovery of microRNAs
b. The concept of RNA interference
4.3.3.2 MicroRNAs - nomenclature, structure, function, mechanism of action
4.3.3.3 MicroRNAs regulate various aspects of human physiology and epigenetics
4.3.3.4 MicroRNAs and skin physiology
a. Introduction on skin
b. MicroRNAs and cutaneous biology
c. Epidermal renewal and skin barrier
d. MiR-203 is a master regulator of epidermal differentiation
e. P63, SOCS3, Zfp281, JUN, and ABL1 are the major mir-203 targets in the epidermis
f. Other microRNAs important in epidermal renewal
g. Skin pigmentation
h. Dermal physiology
i. MicroRNAs and the hypodermal adipocytes
j. Hair follicle morphogenesis
4.3.3.5 Interest of microRNAs in the evaluation in vitro of anti-aging dermo-cosmetic ingredients
a. Skin aging
b. MicroRNAs and cellular senescence
c. Tissue-engineering and microRNA studies
Conclusion
References
Glossary
Part 4.3.4
Amino Acids
Author:
Bruce W. Gesslein
Technical Manager, Specialty and Personal Care
Ajinomoto North America, Inc.
400 Kelby St, Fort Lee NJ 07024 USA
Table of Contents:
4.3.4.1 Overview of Amino Acids
a. Production
b. Properties
4.3.4.2 The Appearance of Aging of Skin and Hair
a. Skin
b. Wrinkling
c. Elasticity
d. Clarity
e. Hydration
f. UV Damage
4.3.4.3 Hair
a. Breakage
b. Dullness
c. Elasticity
d. Roughness
4.3.4.4 Formulation for Skin Care
a. Cleansers
b. Moisturizers
c. Serums
4.3.4.5 Hair Care
a. Shampoos
b. Conditioners
Conclusion
References
Glossary
Part 4.3.5
AHAs and Beyond: Anti-Aging Ingredients and Their
Benefits for All Layers of the Skin
Editor:
Ronni L. Weinkauf, Ph.D.
VP, Applied Research Hair, Skin, and Makeup
L'Oreal USA
111 Terminal Ave
Clark, NJ
Contributing Authors:
Peter Konish
Director of Sensory and Formulation Development
NeoStrata Company, Inc
307 College Road East
Princeton, NJ 08540
Stacy S. Hawkins, Ph.D.
Global Clinical Leader
Unilever Research and Development
50 Commerce Drive, Trumbull, CT 06615
Uma Santhanam, Ph.D.
Senior Manager, Cell Biology and In Vitro Toxicology
Avon Products, Inc.
One Avon Place
Suffern, NY 10901
Table of Contents:
4.3.5.1 Introduction
4.3.5.2 Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
4.3.5.3 Quantitative Clinical Benefits of AHAs
4.3.5.4 Cellular and Structural Changes Associated with AHAs
4.3.5.5 Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
4.3.5.6 Bionic Acids (BAs)
4.3.5.7 Formulation Strategies for Maximizing Hydroxy Acid Performance
4.3.5.8 N-Acetylamino Sugars
4.3.5.9 N-Acetylamino Acids
Conclusion
References
Glossary
Part 4.3.6
Cytokines, Growth Factors, and Stem Cells: Newest Approaches to Younger Looking Skin
Authors:
Sarah A Malerich, BS, Lake Erie College of Osteopathic Medicine, 5000 Lakewood Ranch Blvd, Bradenton, Florida, 34211
Nils Krueger, PhD, and Neil S. Sadick, Sadick Dermatology Research Group, 911 Park Avenue, Suite 1A, New York, New York, 10075
Table of Contents:
4.3.6.1 Aging
4.3.6.2 Growth Factors and Cytokines
4.3.6.3 Stem Cells
Conclusion
References
Part 4.3.7
Antioxidants in Cosmetics for Anti-Aging
Author:
Ratan K. Chaudhuri
Sytheon Ltd.,
Boonton, New Jersey
Table of Contents:
4.3.7.1 Background
4.3.7.2 Causes of UV-Induced Chemical and Biochemical Changes in Skin
4.3.7.3 Antioxidants in the Defense System of the Skin
4.3.7.4 Consequences of UV-Induced Chemical and Biochemical Changes in Skin
4.3.7.5 Use of Conventional and Nonconventional Antioxidants for Skin Protection and Reversal of Signs of Aging
a. Conventional Antioxidants
b. Other Photoprotectants
Conclusion
References
Part 5 Anti-Aging
Part 5.0
Fundamentals of Skin Anti-Aging Overview
Editor:
Navin M. Geria, Doctors Skin Prescription (DSP), Senior Technical Advisor & Principal
DSP- Doctors Skin Prescription
34 Mountainview Road, Warren, NJ 07059
Howard Epstein Ph.D., EMD Chemicals, Philadelphia, PA
Part 5.1
Theories of Aging
Skin Anti-Aging: At the Tipping Point
Navin M. Geria, Chief Scientific Officer, AyurDerm Technologies LLC
Table of Contents:
5.1.1 Theories of Aging
a. Wear and Tear Theory (Immunological Theory)
b. The Neuro-Endocrine Theory
c. The Genetic Control Theory
d. The Free Radical Theory
e. Mitochondrial Theory
f. Waste Accumulation Theory
g. Hayflick Limit Theory
h. Death Hormone Theory
i. Caloric Restriction Theory
j. The Cross-Linking Theory
k. The Telomerase Theory
l. Glycation Theory
m. Mutation Accumulation and DNA/RNA Damage
n.Deficient Immune System/Autoimmune Theory
o. Inflammation Theory
Conclusions
References
Part 5.2
The Cellular Water Principle
Author:
Howard Murad, MD
2121 Rosecrans Avenue, 5th Floor
El Segundo, CA 90245
Table of Contents:
Theories of Aging and Cellular Water
5.2.1 What is aging, from a physiological perspective?
5.2.2 Why do we age?
5.2.3 Water loss and membrane hypothesis of aging
5.2.4 The Science of Cellular Water
Conclusion
References
Part 5.3
Anti-Senescence: Achieving the Anti-Aging Effect by Managing Cellular Functions
Authors:
Shyam Gupta, Ph.D.
Bioderm Research
Linda Walker
CoValence, Inc.
Table of Contents:
5.3.1 Role of Cellular Senescence and Apoptosis in Skin Aging
5.3.2 Role of Enzyme Dysfunction in Skin Aging
a. Oxidative Stress and Free Radicals
b. Peroxisomes
c. Immunosenescence
d. Advanced Glycation End Products (Ages)
e. Proteasomes in Cellular Anti-Senescence
f. Mitochondrial Free Radical Theory of Aging (Mfrta)
5.3.3 Anhydrobiosis and Skin Aging
5.3.4 Osmoprotection, Cellular Anti-Senescence, and Skin Anti-Aging
a. Hyperosmarity, Inflammation, and Cellular Senescence
b. Chemical Basis of Hyperosmarity
5.3.5 New Peptide Derivatives for Anti-Senescence and Skin Anti-Aging
a. Chemical Discovery
b. Formulation Methodology
5.3.6 Consumer Perception and Marketing of Enzyme Biology-Based Skin Care Products
References
Part 5.4
Glycation, Proteasome Activation, and Telomere Maintenance
Author:
Karl Lintner, PhD
President of Kal'idees S.A.S.
Table of Contents:
5.4.1 Glycation
a. Measurement of AGEs
b. Prevention and/or Reversal of Glycation/Glycoxidation
c. In vitro data
d. Ex vivo data on explants
e. In vivo studies
f. Conclusion
5.4.2 The Proteasome
a. Introduction
b. Cosmetic approach to proteasome activity
c. The study of the LC3-II protein
d. Caveat
5.4.3 Telomeres
a. Introduction
b. Telomere length and aging
c. Senescence
d. Cosmetic ideas on telomere maintenance
Conclusion
References
Part 5.5
Sirtuins and Skin
Authors:
Edward Pelle, Este Lauder Research Laboratories; Melville, New York
Nadine Pernodet, Environmental Medicine, New York University School of Medicine
Table of Contents
5.5.1 Introduction to sirtuins
5.5.2 Organelle-specific biochemistry of sirtuins
5.5.3 Sirtuin response to environmental changes
5.5.4 Application of sirtuins to anti-aging skin care
References
Glossary
Part 5.6
Epigenetics of Skin Aging
Author:
Rebecca James Gadberry
Senior Instructor & Program Coordinator,
Cosmetic Sciences, UCLA Extension
Consultant, Skin Care Strategy, Brand & Product Development
Table of Contents:
5.6.1 The Human Genome Project Gives Birth To The Epigenetic Revolution
5.6.2 Epigenetics Defined
5.6.3 Two Primary Epigenetic Mechanisms
1. DNA methylation
2. Chromatin remodeling and histone modification
5.6.4 Epigenetic Links To Aging
5.6.5 Epigenetics And Aging Skin
5.6.6 Epigenetics Mechanisms In DNA Damage and Repair
5.6.7 Cosmetic Ingredients As Epigenetic Modifiers
5.6.8 Nutriepigenetics: How Diet Alters the Epigenome
5.6.9 Epigenetics: The Unifying Theory Of Aging?
5.6.10 What the Future Holds
References
Glossary
List of Figures
Part 5.7
Chronobiology of the Skin
Skin Circadian Rhythm and Clock Genes:
A New Approach to Slowing Down the Aging Process
Authors:
Nadine Pernodet, Ph.D. Vice President of Skin Biology Research
Edward Pelle, Ph.D. Director, Skin Biology Research
Este Lauder Research Laboratories
Melville, NY, US
Table of Contents:
5.7.1 Introduction to Circadian Rhythm and Clock Genes
5.7.2 Desynchronization: Causes and Impact
5.7.3 Skin Circadian Rhythm
References
Part 5.8
Stress, Sleep and Epigenetic Orthodontics:
New Directions for Non-Surgical Skin Anti-Aging
Author:
Dr. Barry Chase DDS
Table of Contents:
Stress, Sleep and Epigenetic Orthodontics:
New Directions for Non- Surgical Skin Anti-Aging
5.8.1 Sleep, Sleep Deprivation, Sleep Disorders, and Skin Aging
a. Normal SleepSleep Stages and Sleep Cycles:
b. Sleep Latency
c. Sleep Stage N1
d. Sleep Stage N2
e. Sleep Stage N3
f. Rapid Eye Movement (REM) Sleep
g. Sleep Disorders, Chronic Stress, and the Impact on Aging and Skin
h. The Pathophysiology of Stressthe Hyper-Arousal of the Autonomic Nervous System
i. Sleep and Chronic Stress
j. Insomnia
k. Obstructive Sleep Apnea
5.8.12 Sleep, Aging, and Aging Skin
a. Sleep Quality and Sleep Deprivation
b. Circadian Rhythm
c. Sleep, Human Growth Hormone: Aging and Skin
d. Chronic Stress and Sleep; Cortisol, Epinephrine, Aging, and Skin
e. Epinephrine and the Skin
f. Free Radicals, Sleep and Aging
5.8.13 Therapy
a. Insomnia
b. Non-medical Cognitive Behavioral Therapy
c. Sleep Hygiene
d. Obstructive Sleep Apnea (OSA) and Aging
e. C-PAP Therapy
f. Oral Appliance Therapy (OAT)
Conclusion
Part 5.8.2
Epigenetic Orthodontics and Dento-Facial Orthopedics:
Non-surgical Facial Esthetic Therapy
Part 6 Formulating
Formulating Cosmetics and Personal Care Products
Editor:
Charles Warren
President, Charles F. Warren Consulting Inc
Contributors:
Charles Warren Charles F. Warren Consulting Inc.
Eva Patel, Skin Rx
Gurpreet (Gogi) Sangha, CEO of G.S. Cosmeceutical
Mark Lees, Ph.D., M.S., CIDESCO Diplomate
Germain Puccetti, Ashland Chemical
Nevine Issa, and Hani Fares Ph.D.
Carrie Shipley, Grain Processing Corporation
Padmaja Prem, VP of Combe's Global Research
Skin Care
Overview
6.1 Formulating Wisdom Category by Category (Author: Charles Warren)
6.2 Skin Lightening, Whitening, and Brightening:
An Overview of Approaches, Key Ingredients, and Formulations for Enhancing Skin Appearance and Correcting/Minimizing Common Skin Pigmentation Disorders
(Authors: Eva Patel and Gogi Sangha)
6.2.1 Definitions
6.2.2 Common Skin Pigmentation Disorders
6.2.3 Triggers for Hyperpigmentation
6.2.4 Pathway to Hyperpigmentation
6.2.5 Formulating IngredientsA Plethora of raw materials and how they come into play
6.2.6 Formulations for Individual Skin Conditions
6.2.7 Claims / Regulations for USA
6.3 Sunscreens (Author Charles Warren)
6.4 Antiperspirants / Deodorants (Author Charles Warren)
6.5 Acne, Oily, ad Aging Skin Product Formulation (Author Mark Lees)
6.5.1 Introduction
a. The Acne-Prone and Clog-Prone Skin: A Client Profile
6.5.2. Review of factors in acne development
a. Genetics
b. The Development of Acne Lesions
c. Hormonal Factors
d. Topical and Environmental Factors
6.5.3 Management of acne-prone skin
a. Sebum/oiliness management
b. Follicular Keratolytics
c. Avoidance of Acnegenic and Comedogenic Products
6.5.4 A Program Approach
a. Case Studies
References
6.6 Face and Body - Masks / Scrubs (Author Charles Warren)
6.6.1 Cleansers/Scrubs
6.6.2 Wipes
6.6.3 Moisturizers
6.6.4 Treatments
6.6.5 Perfumes/Fragrances
6.7 Shaving Preparations: Pre and Post (Author Charles Warren)
6.7.1 Men's Products
a. Shave Creams
b. After-Shave Lotions
6.7.2 Women's Products
a. Shaving Products
b. Depilatories
c. Bleaches
Pigmented Cosmetics
6.8 Color Cosmetics: An Introduction to Formulation and Approaches for Mascaras, Foundations and Lipsticks
(Authors: Germain Puccetti, Nevine Issa, and Hani Fares)
6.8.1 Color cosmetics and the consumer perspective
6.8.2 Foundations
a. Formulas
b. Pigments
6.8.3 Lipsticks and lip-glosses
a. Formulas
b. Color
c. Gloss ingredients
d. Oils
e. Waxes
f. Solvents
g. Silicones
h. Polymers
i. Additional ingredients
6.8.4 Mascaras
a. Basic formulation
b. Advanced ingredients
6.8.5 Skincare actives in foundations and lipsticks
References
Hair Care
6.9 Formulating Wisdom Category by Category
6.10 Shampoos
Ingredients, Formulation and Efficacy Evaluation
(Author Carrie Shipley, Applications Scientist, Grain Processing Corporation)
Introduction
Section I: Typical Shampoo Ingredients
6.10.1 Surfactants
6.10.2 Rheology and Viscosity Modifiers
6.10.3 Other Shampoo Ingredients
6.10.4 Fragrance
6.10.5 Preservatives
6.10.6 Types of Shampoos
Section II: Hair-Cleansing Mechanism
6.10.7 Cleaning of solid particulates
6.10.8 Cleaning of oily soil
6.10.9 Efficacy of soil removal by shampoos
6.10.10 Cleaning of sebum
6.10.11 Cleaning of quaternary ammonium compounds
6.10.12 Cleaning of polymeric residue
6.10.13 Effect of shampoos on hair
Section III: Shampoo Evaluation
Section IV: Future Trends in Shampoos
References
Glossary
6.11 Hair Styling (Author Charles Warren)
a. Nonpressurized Styling Products
b. Pressurized Styling Products
6.12 Specialty Styling Products (Author Charles Warren)
6.13 Permanent Waving (Author Charles Warren)
6.14 Conditioners/Treatments (Author Charles Warren)
6.15 Hair Colorants and Protection
(Author: Padmaja Prem Vice President, Research & Development
Combe Incorporated, 1101 Westchester Avenue
White Plains, NY 10604)
6.15.1 Introduction
6.15.2 Fundamentals of Hair Coloring
6.15.3 Factors Influencing Color Fading and Color Removal
6.15.4 Color Protection
6.15.5 Color Vibrancy and Shine
6.15.6 Remedies for Color Protection, Vibrancy, and Shine
6.15.7 Ingredients and Products for Color-Treated Hair
6.15.8 Conclusions
References
6.16 Reactive Hair Care Products (Author Charles Warren)
6.16.1 Colors
6.16.2 Bleaches
6.16.3 Straighteners
6.17 Formula/Product Development from the Formulator's Viewpoint (Expectations, Initial Prototypes, Final Prototypes) (Author Charles Warren)
6.17.1 Functionality/Performance
6.17.2 Marketing Requirements/Expectations
6.17.3 Manufacturing Requirements/Expectations
6.17.4 New Raw Materials, Bases, Forms
6.17.5 Final Packaging
6.17.6 Stability
6.17.7 Personal Trial
6.17.8 Preliminary Stability
6.17.9 Final Formulation
6.17.10 Final Stability
Part 6.18
Oral Care: Formulating Products and Practices for Health and Beauty
Editor:
Caren M. Barnes
Professor Coordinator of Clinical Research
University of Nebraska Medical Center College of Dentistry
Contributors:
Chi Shing Wong
Member, Product Development Group
Colgate-Palmolive Global Toothbrush Division
James G Masters, Ph.D.
Director in the Research and Development Division
Colgate-Palmolive Company
Shira Pilch, Ph.D.
Associate Director: Research and Development Division
Colgate-Palmolive Company
Michael Prencipe, Ph.D.
Director in the Research and Development Division
Colgate-Palmolive Company
Table of Contents:
6.18 Introduction
A. Important Issues in Oral Health
B. Importance of Aesthetics in Dentistry
C. Halitosis (oral malodor)
D. Oral Issues Related to Aging
1. Demographics of Aging: What to Expect
2. Oral Health and the Aging
6.18.1 Personal Oral Care
A. Dentifrices
1. Regulation (Therapeutic vs. Cosmetic Benefits)
2. Stain Removal
3. Abrasion
4. Ingredients
5. Therapeutic Ingredients
6. Non-Therapeutic Ingredients for Cosmetic Benefits
B. Mouthrinses
1. Ingredients
2. Manufacture
3. Packaging
6.18.2 Oral Hygiene Aids
A. Manual Toothbrush
1. Historical Perspective
2. Importance of Toothbrush Features
B. Powered Toothbrush
1. Historical Perspective
2. Types of Powered Toothbrushes
a. Range of Products
b. Action
c. Sonic and Ultrasonic
d. Additional Features
C. Interdental Cleaning Devices
1. Importance of Interdental Cleaning
2. Dental FlossThe Shortcomings
3. Interdental Brushes
4. Additional Interdental Cleaning Aids
Summary
References
Part 7. Sensory Characterization
Part 7.1
Sensory Signals The applied science of sensory perception and its value
Author:
Lee Stapleton
Program Director
Sensory Spectrum
Table of Contents:
7.1.1 Overview
7.1.2 History of sensory evaluation
7.1.3 Defining sensory properties
7.1.4 Rationale for generating technical-based language for objective product description
7.1.5 Introduction to descriptive analysis methodology
7.1.6 The spectrum descriptive analysis method: philosophy and principles
7.1.7 Fundamentals for developing lexicons
7.1.8 Process for developing personal care product lexicons
7.1.9 Sample lexicon and testing protocol for lotions and creams
7.1.10 Sample protocol for skin preparation and maintenance during testing
7.1.11 Sample lexicon and testing protocol for evaluation of hair tresses
7.1.12 Sample lexicon and testing protocol for evaluation of lather and skinfeel of bar soaps
7.1.13 Sample lexicon and testing protocol for evaluation of appearance and skinfeel of antiperspirants using inner arm site
7.1.14 Sample lexicon and testing protocol for evaluation of appearance and skinfeel of facial foundation using half-face
7.1.15 Applications of descriptive analysis for personal care and cosmetics
References
Part 8. Delivery Systems
Part 8.1
Delivery Systems for Cosmetics and Personal Care
Authors:
Nripen S. Sharma Ph.D., Salvona LLC ,
Bryan Grossman
Sam Shefer Ph.D.
Table of Contents:
8.1.1 Background and Motivation
8.1.2 Classification of Delivery Systems
a. Powder Technologies
b. Improving Performance - MultiSal
c. Gel- based encapsulation systems
d. Porous polymeric systems
8.1.3 Lipid-B based Encapsulation Systems
a. Liposomes
b. Solid Lipid Nanoparticles
c. Lipid-based sub-micron technology - SalSphere
8.1.4 Sugar-Bbased Technologies
a. Cyclodextrins
8.1.5 Other Delivery Systems
a. HydroSal Technology
b. Cellesence
c. Fermenich
d. Thermarome
e. Givaudan
f. Evoglass
1. Retinol
2. Menthol
3. Resveratrol
4. Benzoyl Peroxide
5. Salicylic Acid
6. Fragrances
8.1.6 Technical Challenges in Delivery Systems
References
Part 9 Nutracosmetics
Part 9.1
The Use of Nutraceutical Ingredients in the Cosmetic Industry
Author:
Qi Jia
Chief Science Officer
Unigen Inc. 3005 First Avenue, Seattle, WA 98121
Table of Contents:
9.1.1 Introduction
9.1.2 Nutraceutical ingredients that are suitable for cosmetic usage
9.1.3 Characterization of nutracosmetic ingredients based on biological function
a. Anti-oxidation
b. Anti-inflammation
c. Immune protection
d. Skin hydration
e. Supporting healthy skin-cell renewal and rebuilding dermal structure
f. Anti-skin aging
9.1.4 Bioavailability and clinical considerations
Conclusion
Acknowledgement
References
Part 9.2
Multi-Functional Botanicals for Nutricosmetics Applications
Authors:
Anurag Pande, Ph.D.
Dr. Muhammed Majeed
Sabinsa
Table of Contents:
9.2.1 Introduction (aAbout the Nutricosmetics in general)
9.2.2 Global market
9.2.3 Ayurveda and Botanicals
9.2.4 Multifunctional Nutricosmetics
a. Amla - Saberry (Indian Gooseberry)
b. Green Tea polyphenols (Green Tea)
c. Ellagic acid (Pomegranate)
d. Curcumin C3 Reduct (Turmeric)
e. Cococin (Coconut Water)
Conclusion
Part 10 NanoCosmetics
Part 10.1
Nanocosmetics
Authors:
Allison Kutner,
Joy Makdisi,
Adam Friedman, MD, FAAD
Division of Dermatology
Albert Einstein College of Medicine
Table of Contents:
Nanotechnology and anti-aging
10.1.1 Introduction
10.1.2 Nanomaterials for skin delivery: nanoemulsions, liposomes, and nanoparticles
a. Nanoemulsions
b. Liposomes
c. Nanoparticles
10.1.3 Nanotechnology and photoprotection
10.1.4 Nanotechnology and hair care
10.1.5 Nanotechnology and makeup/coverup
10.1.6 Nanotechnology and emollient therapy
10.1.7 Nanotechnology and anti-aging
Conclusion
References
Part 11 Testing
Part 11.1
Methods to Assess Skin Barrier Integrity:
Effects of Cleansing Products
Authors:
Guojin Lu,
Roger L. McMullen,
David J. Moore
Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Table of Contents:
11.1.1 Introduction
a. Skin structure and functions
b. Cleansing and commonly used surfactant systems in cleansing formulations
c. Skin damages by cleansing products
11.1.2 Physicochemical interactions between surfactants and skin
a. SC protein binding, denaturation, dissolution, and SC swelling
b. SC lipid extraction and selective removal
c. Disruption of SC lipid organization/structure and change of lipid composition
d. pH effect
11.1.3 Approaches and methods to assess the effects of cleansing stresses on skin barrier integrity
a. Surfactant-skin/SC interactions
1. Sensory testing and substantiating instrumental methods
2. Microscope, video microscopy for skin surface topography
3. Skin penetration/permeability by Franz cell and impedance measurements
4. Mechanical behavior of skin
5. Bioengineering methods to measure water flux and water content of skin
b. Surfactant-lipid interactions
1. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC)
2. Vibrational spectroscopy (FT-IR)
3. Quartz crystal microbalance (QCM)
c. Skin-protein interactions
1. BSA denaturation test
2. Zein solubility assay
3. NMF level measurements
Conclusion
References
Part 11.2
Imaging Techniques and Analysis for Quantification of Skin Appearance
Author:
Roger L. McMullen, Ph.D.
Principal Scientist
Materials Science Department
Ashland, Inc.
Bridgewater, NJ 08807
Adjunct Professor
School of Natural Sciences
Fairleigh Dickinson University
Teaneck, NJ 07666
Table of Contents:
11.2.1 Skin Surface Imaging and Analysis
a. Polarized Light Photography
b. Imaging Techniques with Skin Replicas
c. Fringe Projection Methods to Measure Skin Topography
d. Pore Measurements
e. Skin Thermography
f. Ultraviolet (UV) Reflectance Photography
g. Fluorescence Reflectance Photography
h. Multi-Spectral Multi-Modal Facial Imaging
i. Photographic Analysis of Lips
j. Hyperpigmentation Measurements of Skin
k. Imaging of Cellulite
11.2.2 In Vivo Imaging of Internal Features of Skin
a. Reflectance Confocal Microscopy
b. Ultrasonography
11.2.3 High-Resolution Microscopic Techniques for Imaging Skin
a. Reflected Light Microscopy (Epi-illumination)
b. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM)
c. Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM)
d. Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM)
11.2.4 Image Analysis to Quantify Histological and Immunofluorescent Staining of Ex Vivo and In Vitro Skin Cell Cultures
a. Measuring Pigmentation of Histological Skin Sections
b. Immunofluorescence Staining Quantification in Fibroblast Cell Cultures
c. Image Analysis of Triple-Stained Normal Human Keratinocytes (NHKs)
d. Measurement of Collagen IV Expression at the Dermal-Epidermal Junction
Conclusion
Acknowledgments
References
Part 11.3
Biophysical Measurement and Evaluation of Skin Elasticity and Topography
Authors:
Stefanie Luebberding, PhD
Nils Krueger, PhD
IRosenpark Research
Wilhelminenstrae 13
64283 Darmstadt (Germany)
Table of Contents:
11.3.1 Skin Topography
a. Quantitative assessment of skin topography
b. Replica-based methods
c. 3D Photogrammetry
d. Fringe Projection Method
11.3.2 Skin Elasticity
a. Quantitative assessment of skin elasticity
b. Tensile Testing
c. Torsion Technique
d. Impact Technique
e. Elevation Technique
Conclusion
References
Glossary
Part 11.4
A Survey of Test Methodology Used in Evaluating the Damage, Protection and Repair of Hair
Authors:
Ray Rigoletto Sr. Manager,
Global R&D Applications Care Specialties: Hair Care; Home Care
Ashland, Inc.
1005 US Hwy No. 202/206 Bridgewater, NJ 08807
Tim Gillece
Ashland, Inc.
Table of Contents:
11.4.1 Introduction
11.4.2 The nature of hair damage
11.4.3 Simulating damaging hair treatments for studying the alleviating effects of protective and repair ingredients
a. Treatment schedules
1. Thermal Exposure
2. UV Exposure
3. Color wash-fastness techniques
4. Mechanical and thermal-mechanical damage
11.4.4 Instrumentation and experimental methods for studying damage and protection of hair
a. Physical-Chemical
1. Differential Scanning Calorimetry
2. Surface Tension, Wetting, and Contact Angle Analysis
3. Dynamic Vapor Sorption (DVS)
4. Streaming Potential
5. Time of Flight-Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (ToF-SIMS)
6. X-ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy (XPS)
7. Inverse Gas Chromatography (IGC)
b. Spectroscopic
1. Infrared Imaging (IR imaging)
2. Spectrofluorimetry
c. Microscopy
1. Optical Microscopy
2. Microfluorimetry
3. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM)
4. Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM)
d. Mechanical properties
1. Tensile testing
2. Impact Loading
3. Flexabrasion
4. Fatigue analysis
5. Torsional Strain
6. Texture analysis
7. Dynamic Mechanical Analysis (DMA)
e. Image analysis
f. Infrared Thermography (IRT)
11.4.5 Color protection
a. Color wash-fastness of oxidative hair color from shampoo stripping
1. Colorimetry
2. Image analysis of digital photographs
b. Color Protection from UV-Induced Fading
11.4.6 Repair Techniques
a. Protein Hydrolyzates
b. Cuticle Decementation and its Repair
c. Repair of Split Ends
d. Repair of the Surface Lipid Layer
e. Strategies for Permanent Mending of Hair
11.4.7 Tests to study whole hair attributes from damaging effects and improvements with cosmetic treatments
a. Panel testing
b. Fiber fragmentation techniques
c. Mechanical combing
d. Salon Testing
Conclusion
Acknowledgments
References
Part 11.5
Clinical Testing of Cosmetics and Skin Care Products: Methods and Instrumentations
Author:
Iqbal Sadiq, M.Phil.
Director Research and Technology
Product Investigations, Inc.
151 East Tenth Ave., Conshohocken, PA 19428, USA
Table of Contents:
11.5.1 Introduction
11.5.2 Cosmetics and Skin Care products for human use
11.5.3 Skin Strata
11.5.4 Bio-Instrumentation
a. General
b. Environmental Chamber
11.5.5 Skin Hydration
a. Skicon
b. Novameter
c. Corneometer
d. Sorption-Desorption Test
e. Moisture Accumulation Test
11.5.6 Trans-Epidermal Water Loss
a. Evaporimeter
b. Dermalab
11.5.7 Skin Blood Flow, Color, Erythema
a. Laser Doppler Flowmetry
b. Colorimetry
c. Reflectance Spectrophotometry
11.5.8 Imaging Techniques
a. Digital Photography
1. Face Photography
2. Polarized Light Photography
3. Fluorescence Photography
4. Ultraviolet Light Photography
b. Ultrasound
c. Videomicroscopy
d. Confocal Microscopy
e. Optical Coherence Tomography (OCT)
11.5.9 Skin Topography
a. Replica of Skin
b. Phase Shift Fringe Projection Device
c. Calculation of Roughness Values
d. Surface Area Calculation
11.5.10 Viscoelastic Measurements
a. Suction Device
b. Ballistometry
c. Torsional Ballistometry
11.5.11 Some Ex Vivo Techniques
a. Desquammation Measurement
b. Cyanoacrylate Surface Biopsy
c. Sebum Collection Assay
11.5.12 Application of Bio-Instrumentation: Some Examples
Conclusion
References
Part 11.6
Nanomaterials Characterization
Authors:
Simon Allen, Intertek MSG, D125 The Wilton Centre, Wilton, Redcar, United Kingdom, TS10 4RF
Christian Gimenez, Intertek Chalon, Espaces Entreprises, 12 Rue Alfred Kastler, Fragnes, France 71530
Peter DeSanto Jr., Intertek Allentown, 7201 Hamilton Blvd., Allentown, PA, USA 18195
Scott Hanton, Intertek Allentown
Todd McEvoy, Intertek Allentown
John Zielinski, Intertek Allentown
Table of Contents:
Introduction
11.6.1 Particle Size, Distribution, and Shape
a. Inorganic Particles
b. Liposoluble Organic Soluble Nanomaterials and Their Delivery Systems
c. Nanomaterial Legislation in Cosmetics
d. Nanomaterials Characterization
1. Particle Size, Distribution, and Shape
1.1 Electron Microscopy Techniques: TEM and SEM
1.2 Probe-based techniques: STM and AFM
1.3 Dynamic Light Scattering
1.4 High-resolution particle sedimentation
11.6.2 Surface Chemistry
a. Electron Spectroscopy
b. Auger electron spectroscopy (AES)
c. X-ray photo electron spectroscopy (XPS)
d. Surface Mass Spectrometry
1. Dynamic secondary ion mass spectrometry (DSIMS)
2. Static secondary ion mass spectrometry (SSIMS)
11.6.3 Surface Area and Porosity
a. BET Surface Area
b. Porosity
c. Sample Preparation
11.6.4 Physical Properties
a. Phase Identification using XRD
b. Phase Composition using XRD
c. Crystallite size using XRD
11.6.5 Bulk Metals Analysis
a. X-ray Fluorescencebulk and trace metals analysis
b. Trace and ultra-trace metals analysis using ICP-OES and ICP-MS
Conclusion
Terms
Equations
References
Part 11.7
In Vitro Assays to Measure Epigenetic Mechanisms Involved with Controlling Gene Expression
Author:
Robert Holtz, President
BioInnovation Laboratories
7220 W. Jefferson Ave., Ste 112Lakewood, CO 80235 USA
Table of Contents:
11.7.1 Introduction
11.7.2 DNA Modifications: DNA Methylation
a. DNA Methylation: Methyltransferases
b. DNA Methylation: Pharmacological Agents
11.7.3 Histone Modifications
a. Post-Translational Histone Modification Assays
b. Histone-Modifying Enzyme Assays
c. Pharmacological Agents That Impact Histone Modification
Conclusion
References
Part 12 Sustainability and Eco-Responsibility
Part 12.0 A Global Approach for the Cosmetic and Personal Care Industry
Editor's Overview
Alban Muller (President, Alban Muller Group)
Part 12.1 Defining Sustainability and how it changes the innovation process
Authors:
Jamie Pero Parker (Innovation Manager, RTI International) and
Phil Watson (Technology Commercialization Manager, RTI International)
12.1.1 Sustainabilitya critical business issue
12.1.2 Innovation is a critical but challenging component of any sustainability strategy
a. The concept of open innovation (OI)
b. Open innovation and sustainability are synergistic
c. Transparency
d. Collaboration
12.1.3 Integration of sustainability principles into innovation practices is evolutionary
a. Six key traits of sustainable companies
b. Few companies explicitly recognize and exploit open innovation as a tool to help them on this sustainability pathway
c. Companies practice open innovation for sustainability adopt a more complete model of open innovation
d. Practical lessons can be learned from companies that have recognized the synergies between sustainability and OI
References
Part 12.2
A Botanist's view of Sustainability: Use or Abuse in the Personal Care Industry?
Author:
Michael J. Balick (Vice President of Botanical Sciences, Director of the Institute of Economic Botany, New York Botanical Gardens)
12.2.1 Introduction
12.2.2 What happens once you find a species of interest?
1. Accurate identification of botanicals
2. Understanding why the plant is used in the product, and what part or form will give the best result to the consumer
3. Truthful representation of the local uses of the plant in marketing efforts
4. Making sure the environment is not degraded as a result of harvesting botanicals
5. Ensuring that local communities are not negatively impacted by the harvest of the plant
6. Under the spirit and intent of the United Nationssponsored Convention on Biodiversity, compensation to groups and source countries where the materials and ideas were obtained
12.2.3 Sustainable production of wild-harvested products
Acknowledgments
References
Part 12.3
The Herboretum Network for promoting local cultures and biodiversity
Author:
Genevive Bridenne (CIO, Alban Muller Group)
12.3.1 Introduction
12.3.2 The Herboretum, a true open-air plant laboratory dedicated to plants used in beauty, health, and well-being
a. An area of reflection, a scientific and natural approach
b. An area of protection, a long-term commitment to the protection of plant resources
12.3.3 The Herboretum organizes themed visits of four different kinds: school groups, the general public, professionals, and organizations
12.3.4 The Herboretum Network, a unique interface between the phytocosmetic industry and biodiversity
Conclusion
Part 12.4
The advantages and potential contribution of local cultures for carbon footprint reduction
Author:
Jean-Marc Seigneuret (Technical Director, Alban Muller Group)
12.4.1 Introduction
12.4.2 The use of plants in cosmetics
12.4.3 Plant origin
a. Name and identification
b. Wild plants
c. Cultivated plants
d. Good agricultural practices
12.4.5 Plant breeding
a. Mass selection
b. Cross-breeding
12.4.6 Farming method
a. Conventional farming (sustainable farming)
b. Organic farming
12.4.7 Initial post-harvest processing
a. The fresh plant
b. Dry plants
c. Storage
Conclusion
Part 12.5
Cosmetic ingredients from plant cell cultures: A new eco-sustainable approach
Author:
Roberto Dal Toso (R&D Manager IRB SpA)
12.5.1 Introduction
12.5.2 Traditional methods of botanical sourcing
12.5.3 Advantages of plant cell cultures: the new alternative
12.5.4 Sustainability of the biotechnological approach
12.5.5 Phenylpropanoids: structure, metabolism, and functions in plants
12.5.6 Standardization, Safety, and New Possibilities
12.5.7 Bioactive properties of PP for cosmetic applications
Conclusion
References
Part 12.6
Eco-responsibility applied to plant extraction
Author:
Alban Muller (President, Alban Muller Group)
12.6.1 Sourcing the plant raw material: Cultivation is key
12.6.2 Transforming the plant into a "drug" to become a cosmetic extract raw material
12.6.3 Extraction
a. The traditional extractions
b. The separation steps
c. The concentration steps
d. The eco-responsible steps around extraction
e. After extraction and concentration: Drying
f. Control steps
12.6.4 An eco-responsible extract
12.6.5 Certification or not?
12.6.6 The GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) parameter
12.6.7 Eco-responsibility applied to formulation
a. Oily phase
1. Oils
2. Vegetable oil and vegetable
3. Oil esters
4. Antioxidants
b. Water phase
Part 12.7
The industrial frame: Concrete, green solutions for production and waste management
Author:
Alban Muller (President, Alban Muller Group)
12.7.1 An example of an alternative, eco-friendly process for plant extraction: Zeodration, a unique eco-responsible solution to dry plant extracts
a. The principle
b. Ecological advantages
12.7.2 Water and biodiversity gardens
An original innovation: Restoring wetlands in industrial areas
a. The project's origins
b. Resources implemented
c. The return of animal biodiversity
c. A sensory environment, conducive to awareness
Part 13 Cosmetic Manufacturing
Part 13.0
Manufacture of Cosmetics Section Overview
Meyer R. Rosen
Part 13.1
Cosmetic Manufacturing Processes
Editor: Bruce Victor
Contributors:
Donald S. Buell Este Lauder Companies, Inc.
Rose Khosravani Este Lauder Companies, Inc.
Doug J. Melenkevitz Este Lauder Companies, Inc.
Bruce L. Victor Este Lauder Companies, Inc.
David P. Yacko Este Lauder Companies, Inc.
Meyer R. Rosen Interactive Consulting, Inc.
Table of Contents:
13.1 Introduction
13.1.2 Unit Operations
a. Mixing
1. Quality of Mixing
2. Mixing Rheology
3. Heat Transfer
4. Types of Reactors and Their Use in Cosmetics
5. Emulsion Processing EquipmentHeat Transfer
13.1.3.1 Wet SystemsSingle Phase (Miscible) Systems
a. Flow Patterns: Fluids with Low or Medium Viscosity (< 5,000 centipoise)
b. Impellers for Liquids of Low and Medium Viscosity
c. Power Consumption
d. Pumping Capacity and Velocity Head
e. Mixing Time
f. Influence of Vessel Shape
g. Flow Patterns: Fluids of High Viscosity
h. Impeller Types and Mixers for High-Viscosity Fluids
13.1.3.2 Wet Systems - Multiphase Systems
a. The Emulsification Process
b. Orientation of Phases
c. Addition of Surfactant
d. Emulsion Temperature
e. Emulsion Processing Equipment - Mixing
f. High-Shear Mixers and Dispersion Equipment
g. Batch Homogenizers
h. Continuous High-Pressure Homogenizers and Mixers
i. Processing of Water in Silicone Emulsions
j. Liposome Production
13.1.3.3 Wet SystemsLiquidSolid Systems
a. Suspension of Solids
b. Milling Equipment
c. Colloid Mills
d. Ball Mills
e. Three-Roll Mills
13.1.4 Filling
a. Filling Parameters
b. Filling Machines
c. Filling Low-Viscosity Products (Lotions, Toners, Liquid Makeups)
d. Filling High-Viscosity Products (Creams, Mascaras, Masks)
e. FillingTraditional Lotion Products
f. Filling Shear-Sensitive Products
g. Filling Shampoos, Conditioners, CleansersProducts That Aerate
h. Packaging Lines
i. Warm and Hot FillsCreams and Dispersions
j. Warm and Hot FillsGodet Products
k. Warm and Hot FillsLipsticks, Lip Balms, Suppositories
l. Antiperspirants and Deodorants
13.1.5 Scale-Up
a. Agitation
b. High-Shear Mixing
c. Heat Transfer
d. Mass Transfer
13.1.6 Dry Systems
a. Blending Equipment
b. Shearing Equipment
c. Alternatives to the Hammer Mill
d. Batch Color Correction
e. Powder Grinds for Creams and Lotions BatchesDry Mix
f. Loose Powders
g. Filling Loose Powders
h. Filling Pressed Powders
i. Powder Scale-UpBatch
13.1.7.1 Wet Continuous Process
a. Emulsion Products Requiring Cooling
b. Emulsion Hair Conditioners
c. Hair Gels
d. Scale-Up of Continuous Systems
e. Production Design Considerations
13.1.7.2 Dry Continuous Processing
Bulk Powder Storage
References
Part 13.2
Cold-Process Emulsification Producing Sub-Micron Dispersions:
Formulation and Aesthetic Enhancement of Cosmetic and OTC Products
Authors:
Michael Ross
James Wilmott
Leading Edge Innovations, LLC
50 Tannery Road, Suite #5
Branchburg, New Jersey 08876
Table of Contents:
13.2.1 Contemporary Cosmetics
a. The Future
b. Properties of Emulsions
c. Issues with Emulsions
13.2.2 Factors Driving the Search for Alternate Approaches
a. Textural Diversity
b. Enhanced Performance
c. Marketplace Confusion
d. Regulatory
e. Resource Availability and Sustainability
13.2.4 Sub-Micron Micelles
a. Benefits of Being Smaller
13.2.5 Methods of Producing Sub-Micron Micelles
13.2.6 Formulating with Sub-Micron Micelles
13.2.7 Manufacturing Benefits
a. Protection of Key Materials
b. Consistency & Reproducibility
c. Reduced Manufacturing Cost
d. Global Consistency
13.2.8 Consumer Benefits
a. Enhanced Product Efficacy
b. Unique Aesthetic Experiences
c. Consistency and Reproducibility
e. Safety
f. Environmental
Conclusion
References
Part 13.3
Intelligent Selection and Manufacture of Natural Extracts
Author:
Satish Nayak, PhD
Kemin Industries,
2100 Maury Street, Des Moines, Iowa 50317, USA.
Table of Contents:
13.3.1 Introduction
13.3.2 Sources of Natural Ingredients
a. Plants
b. Microorganisms
c. Algae
13.2.3 Extraction Technologies
a. Solvent Extraction
b. Microwave Assisted Extraction (MAE)
c. Factors affecting efficiency of MAE
d. Ultrasonic Assisted Extraction (UAE)
e. Factors Affecting Efficiency of UAE
f. Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SCFE)
g. Factors affecting efficiency of SCFE
Conclusion
References
Part 14 Packaging
Part 14.1
Emerging Strategies for Sustainable Packaging:
Balancing Materials, Design, and Appearance
Author:
Wylie Royce
Royce Associates
Table of Contents:
14.1.1 Plastic: Material of choice for a generation
14.1.2 Material Options
a. Bio-based resins
b. Bio-based PET
c. Bio-based HDPE
d. Basf eco-flex and ecovio
e. Biodegradable additives
f. Bio-resin design limitations
g. Bio advantages
h. Bio limitations summarized
i. Conventional resins
j. Advantages
k. Limitations
14.1.3 design strategies
a. Choosing the material
b. Bio-resins
c. Bio-resin alloys
d. Conventional resins
14.1.4 sustainability: what makes a package sustainable (and it's not just the package anymore)
a. Measuring sustainable claims
b. The big picture
c. State your message
References
Part 14.2
Aerosol Containment and Delivery
Author:
Harry Wu
Aerosol Connection LLC.
Table of Contents
14.2.1 History
14.2.2 Definition
14.2.3 Principle of Aerosol Technology
14.2.4 Aerosol Systems
a. Homogenous systems
b. Heterogeneous systems
c. Barrier pack systems
14.2.5 Components of an Aerosol Container
a. Three-Piece Tin-Plated Steel
b. Two-Piece Tin-Plated Steel
c. Aluminum
d. Glass
e. Polyethylene Terephthalate
14.2.6 Valve
a. The Male Valve
b. Female Valve
14.2.7 Types of Valves
a. Standard valves
b. Powder valves
c. Spray valves
d. Vapor tap valves
e. Metering valves
f. Crimping
14.2.8 The Actuator
14.2.9 Propellants
a. Hydrocarbon Propellants
b. Dimethyl Ether
c. Hydrofluorocarbons
d. Compressed Gases
14.2.10 Filling
a. Cold Filling
b. Under-the-Cup Filling
c. Pressure Filling
d. Hot Water Bath Testing
e. Headspace
14.2.11 Operation
14.2.12 Alternate Systems
a. Bag-On-Valve
b. Bag-in-a-Can System
c. Sepro Can System
d. Lechner System
e. Piston System
f. Atmos Dispensing System
g. Pump-Activated Systems
1. Dry Spray Dispenser
2. F-Z Finger Pump Foamer
3. Co-Dispensing Systems
14.2.13 Formulating Aerosol Products: The Voice of Experience
a. Aerosol Containers
b. Aerosol Valves
c. The Actuators
14.2.14 Physical & Chemical Properties of the Product
a. Viscosity
b. Suspension System
c. Solvent System
d. pH Value
e. Foam Products
f. Sprayable Products
14.2.15 Stability Testing
References
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